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Since my last visit to Trinidad in 1996, I've been madly researching the country in preparation for my next trip, which occurred in May of this year. From my research, I learned a great deal about the unspoiled areas of Trinidad along the north coast of the island. The only way to reach these areas is on foot, so I decided to try the "most-often attempted hike" (according to the Rough Guide to Trinidad and Tobago) from Blanchisseuse to Paria waterfall. I hired an adventure travel company in Trinidad called Wildways to guide my husband and I on the bench trail. The bench trail is the local name for the donkey tracks cut in the nineteenth century for transporting goods and produce between the villages. Wildways describes the one-day trek to Paria waterfall as a "three hour hike through the rainforest, with breathtaking views of the rugged north coast and golden-sand beaches." In terms of activity level, Wildways rates the hike accurately as "suitable for clients who already follow a healthy lifestyle, and some programme of aerobic activity." |
| The day before the hike, a representative from Wildways, Wendy Yawching, visited us to answer our questions about the hike as well as to collect the fee for the trip. The tour costs $70US per person, but is well worth the depletion in funds. Wildways provides two knowledgeable guides along with ample amounts of food and water, not to mention lots of chocolate bars for boosting one's energy levels. On the following day, at 6:45 (in the bloody morning!), our tour guides, Edmund Charles and Bernd Avenhaus, arrived at our hotel to "take us on a little walk through the woods." Edmund is a native Trinidadian and Bernd is an adopted one. Bernd is originally from Germany, but has lived in Trinidad for almost 30 years. In fact, if he didn't tell me he was German, I would have assumed he was a Trinidadian born and bred. Nevertheless, both Bernd and Edmund were great ambassadors for Trinidad and Tobago. They obviously care a great deal about the environment and exhibited their love of Trinidad by collecting garbage (left by other hikers!) we encountered on the trail. |
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After our introductions, we hopped into an old, but reliable, jeep bound for Blanchisseuse. It took us nearly three hours to reach the village because of a few diversions on the way. We drove through Maraval on the Saddle Road, stopped at a gas station to buy some ice for the cooler and then continued on the North Coast Road to Maracas. Just before the beach at Maracas, we stopped at La Vache Scenic Area, which provides a spectacular view of the Caribbean sea at the highest point on the North Coast Road. The scene was beautiful, especially because we didn't have to share it with beachgoers so early in the morning. We continued our drive to the picturesque village of Blanchisseuse and headed for the silver suspension bridge that spans the Marianne River. After the bridge, one can see sprawling estate homes fenced in by high walls. It seems that the newly-rich finds this isolated village the ideal spot for displaying and enjoying their wealth. Bernd parked the jeep outside the walls of one these barricaded mansions, and we marched into the woods for our little walk. |
| Our little walk took us through the rainforest of the 3000 foot Northern Range mountains, which run across the northern coastal edge of Trinidad. It took us three hours to reach the Paria waterfall. On the way, we met some students from the University of West Indies returning from the waterfall as well as a rastaman and his entourage of dogs. The rastaman, who lives in a small, wooden home in the forest, was collecting sea moss from the ocean, probably to make (and to sell) the popular drink that is widely believed to enhance sexual performance (Trinidad's viagra!). Traditionally, sea moss is mixed with milk to create the concoction, however, Western doctors are now touting sea moss as a treatment for human cancers. Perhaps this is one reason why some more enlightened people live in the middle of the forest where the nearest stores are an hour or more away on foot. I couldn't imagine living in such conditions, in such solitude, without shops, TV, my computer and other so-called comforts! These people are truly remarkable! |
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The best thing about hiking to the waterfall were the isolated, golden-sand beaches we encountered. The waves at Yarra Beach were huge and raucous, and I had great fun just letting them beat against me. We were the only people on this beautiful golden-sand beach. It was just like heaven! At this beach, I took a picture of a stunted coconut tree growing on a rock. We saw other interesting rock formations during the hike. At the western end of Paria Beach, we encountered one of the more famous rock formations in Trinidad called Church Rock, or Pointe L'eglise. Another interesting site at Paria Beach was the mounds of sand which house the eggs that leatherback sea turtles lay on the beach every year. Unfortunately, there was evidence that some mindless, uncaring person tampered with the turtle mounds to remove the eggs, regardless of the fact that the leatherback sea turtle was declared an endangered species in the 1970s. Many people consider the eggs a delicacy and will risk the possibility of prison and/or fines to procure them. |
| After viewing this disturbing scene, we walked inland towards the Paria waterfall. Half an hour later, we stopped at a small island to put on our swimsuits and to remove our shoes. Then we headed to another island closer to the waterfall. I really felt like Indiana Jones walking in chin-deep water whilst trying to balance my possessions on my head. I was so happy to reach the final destination. The waterfall was lovely, but I was too scared to swim really close to it. I'm not a great, or even good, swimmer. However, I thoroughly enjoyed picnicking at the foot of the waterfall. And, I had a lot of fun feeding bread to the fish. The site was beautiful, tranquil, serene. I didn't want to leave, but after an hour, we began our trip back to civilization. The hike back to Blanchisseuse was a lot easier because our wonderful guides took pity on us and carried our backpacks. Lifesavers! After a couple of hours, we arrived at Blanchisseuse, jumped into the jeep, and headed for Maracas where we dined on a sumptuous dinner of shark and bake. |
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Overall, the trip was a great success. Now, I can tell people that Trinidad does have lovely, isolated, clean beaches. One just has to be determined to find them. I hope that this short account of my hiking trip to Paria waterfall will encourage tourists and expatriates to explore the natural wonders of Trinidad (no, not the women in skimpy Carnival costumes!). So, start developing your muscles, because the trip won't be easy, but it will be well worth the trouble.
