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The tubing collar must be screwed onto the tubing end far enough to insure that it is the coned end which bottoms and not either the tubing collar or the coupling nut. DO NOT tighten excessively; to do so may ruin the seat or collapse the conical nose of the tubing, closing it off partially or completely.
Good alignment of tubing and fittings is a prerequisite; the heavier the tubing and the higher the pressure, the more essential this is. Tubing must enter fittings straight and not at an angle, otherwise sealing trouble is certain to follow. Cut and fit the tubing so that on releasing any one gland nut in the assembly, the parts will stay together and not spring apart. Except on long runs of tubing, some slight effort should be required to pull the joint apart.
To make up a joint seal, enter the cone into the fitting, hold in the aligned position until the coupling or gland nut is hand tightened, then use the wrench. It is better to err by too light a touch with the wrench, rather than to tighten too much, until experience has taught the technician the right torque.
It is good practice after preparing the ends of tubing, including deburring, to flush the tubes and fittings with a solvent such as trichlor-ethylene, then blow them out with clean dry air to remove any remaining particles. Failure to do this leads to malfunctioning valves, pumps, and other system components.
The smaller size of high pressure tubing may be bent at right angles to eliminate the need of extra joints and elbow fittings. A good rule of thumb is to bend the tubing so that the inside radius is approximately three times the outside diameter of the tubing.
- DO NOT hot bend the tubing. To do so weakens it and invites early failures.