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Delightful R.I. bayside bike path peddles itself 14-mile itinerary offers much more than exercise By Judy F. Kugel, Globe Correspondent, 8/26/2001
Just east of Providence Place shopping center, a hop, skip, and jump off Route 195, lies India Point Park, adjacent to Providence's industrial harbor. The park is the start of the 141/2-mile rails-to-trails East Bay Bicycle Path that meanders along the bay from East Providence to Bristol. And because the 10-foot-wide paved trail was once a Penn Central Railroad track, it is mostly flat, except for two hills at the India Point end. Park in the convenient free lot, and hop on your bike. Moments later, you'll lose sight of Veterans Memorial Parkway, descend to the bay, and feel as though you're on vacation. For the next one to several hours, you ride along Narragansett Bay by salt marshes, saltwater rivers, ponds and lakes, and the Ponham Rocks Lighthouse on a picturesque tiny island. (Overheard on the trail: Cyclist 1: ''How'd you like to live there?'' Cyclist 2: ''I'd take it.'') You see ducks, swans, geese, herons, egrets and seagulls, and abundant wildflowers. There are beautiful historic mansions and ocean-view condos, new and under construction, as well as middle-class backyards. Narragansett Bay, complete with tankers from around the world and sailing vessels of all sorts, is never far from view. You pass in and out of cooling forest (where the occasional tree root bumps are usually well marked - they'll be removed during the 14-year-old trail's tuneup this fall). If you get an early start, you encounter fishermen on the small wooden bridges. You share the path with serious cyclists (eyes on their destination), recreational cyclists, walkers, joggers, in-line skaters, and families out for a stroll, but there is a pecking order, and bikes have the right of way. Good signage at each entrance (''Walkers keep left facing oncoming cyclists'') makes it work. If 141/2 miles seems too much, there are several other natural entry points along the way. It's easy to know how far you have gone because there are mileage markers on the path every half mile. A number of minor (and two major) roads intersect the trail, and although we didn't meet up with cars at most of the intersections, those we encountered stopped for us, despite their having the right of way. On our first outing we had no idea how long it would take on the Providence to Bristol leg so we didn't stop. On the way back, we realized how much there was to see off the trail, and we took a much more leisurely approach. Near the Warren/Bristol town line, there is a footbridge off to the left that leads to the Audubon Society's Environmental Education Center, a 28-acre wildlife refuge and 10,000-square-foot building offering hands-on displays, 3-D dioramas, and a series of educational programs, as well as a replica of a 35- foot-long right whale. You can leave your bikes in a rack at the end of the foot bridge while you visit the center. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for children. Other possible diversions along the trail include basketball and tennis courts, beaches, two bicycle shops (helpful if yours needs fixing), a supermarket (if you forgot your picnic lunch), restaurants, and the obligatory ice cream shops. Although you would have to come back with a car if you purchase an antique merry-go-round horse, Warren has a large antique center and several small antique shops a couple of blocks off the trail. Other highlights: Colt State Park. Shortly before arriving in downtown Bristol, the trail crosses Asylum Road. Take a right there, and in minutes you can be at the Bristol town beach. Even better, just before the beach turn left into the 460-acre Colt State Park. Formerly a large farm owned by Samuel Colt, chairman of the board of the United States Rubber Company, you now find a 3-mile bike and walking trail, boat launch, fishing dock, dozens of picnic areas (that can be reserved), beaches, ponds, and playgrounds, a visitors' center, and a panoramic view of Narragansett Bay. On a clear day, you can see Newport 20 miles away. The park is open year-round, and in winter it is popular for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. There is no entrance fee. In-line skates are not allowed in the park. Bristol. Home of the first July 4th parade and a sailing and shipping center since the 17th century, Bristol is all charm and all New England. Even if you are not hungry, grab a bagel or a drink at the Bristol Bagel Works on Hope Street (I was sure it would be called Main Street). Sit outside overlooking the street's red, white, and blue center stripe and you can do some serious people-watching while you plan your stay. Visit Blithewold Mansion, a 45-room, 1908 period-furnished mansion with 33 landscaped acres along the bay featuring various flower gardens and a 90-foot-tall giant sequoia, the largest east of the Rockies. (Admission $10, $8 for seniors.) If you are a boating fan, stop by the Herreshoff Marine Museum ($5, $4 for seniors), which displays more than 50 classic sailing and power yachts. The Herreshoff Manufacturing Co. built eight consecutive successful America's Cup Defenders. There are restaurants and overnight accommodations to fit every budget in Bristol. Warren. Claiming to be the smallest community (population 11,405) in the smallest county in the smallest state, Warren in the summer is home to the Short Attention Span Theatre's ''20 plays, 50 actors and 1001 laughs,'' all for $10. The town was the original home of Brown University. Perhaps it is better known for its antique center and shops just a few blocks off the trail. For us and a host of other cyclists on a hot Sunday, the frozen yogurt/lemonade shop across from the railroad station and right on the trail was a must-stop. Also recommended is Delekta's on Main Street, an old-fashioned pharmacy and soda fountain known for its ''coffee cabinet'' ice cream treat. Be warned: Delekta's closes at noon on Sunday. On our midafternoon return trip, the trail was a bit more crowded, yet we were able to keep a steady pace. Back in the parking lot, we saw the same middle-aged couple loading their bikes onto the car next to us that had been unloading them when we arrived in the morning. At 9 a.m., she was absolutely sure she couldn't make the 29-mile round trip. At 3 p.m., she was talking about how soon she would be back. Our sentiments exactly. Judy F. Kugel is a freelance writer from Cambridge. This story ran on page K1 of the Boston Globe on 8/26/2001. |
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RISTOL, R.I. - An easy trip from Boston brings
you to Narragansett Bay's vacation land before you have time to finish that large double
latte in your car's cup holder.