I just did put braided steel lines on my 1983 GL1100I. I went with the Goodridge lines. I think the quality is better than Russel. They are coated and in color if you want. Fast turn too. Stuff you need to know:

-The female part of the rear line and the front right are held on with a clip where it mates to the metal line. That means you need a special fitting on the end of hose. Goodridge will supply the line with that fitting. It is difficult to hold the lines with out it.

- It is very important that the banjo bolts face the same way respective to each other on the front left line. You can't twist braided steel. Best to give your old lines to the person making them up so they match. Goodridge quoted me $120. My Honda shop Goodridge lines made to order for me for $80!? (go figure. probably a mistake) If it is screwed up they reorder at their expense.

- Line length is critical. Too long and it will rub the wheel especially the rear. The old lines tend to be kinked. I swore the braided ones were too long until I streched the old ones hard.

- Separtating the hose from the metal line is tough. Can twist metal line and you are in big trouble. Get a 10mm brake line wrench from NAPPA. Don't unscrew the nut on the metal line. Just hold it with the brake line wrench. Unscrew the nut on the rubber line to break it free.

- You have to remove the front fairing. Make notes on the cable routing.

- Braided lines are smaller diamenter than rubber. You can use the Honda holders by doing the following: remove the 1" rubber grommets by slitting lengthwise with a razor. Use 5/16' clear plastic tubing to use as a sleeve. Slit and place over braided line. Do not glue to line. The rubber grommet will slide over this. Glue the tubing to the grommet well with "Auto Goop". (Do not glue the tubing to the line as you have to slide the gromment to adjust the line position.) A dab of liquid soap helps it slide back into the metal clip.

- Replace the plastic sleeve by the lower triple clamp with a piece of 5/16 neoprene fuel line or clear tube. Slit and glue.

- Check and make sure the lines don't bind, prevent the fork from moving lock to lock or get caught on anything. The braided line can get caught on a wire holder under the false tank on the right near where it connects to the metal line when the fork is turned to the extreme right and back. Watch the rear line so it doesn't rub the wheel. Point the bango bolt outward to keep the line snug agains the shock.

That should do it. Remember to use type 3 fluid.