Ellen and I had a restaurnat week lunch at Cafe Boulud, the old Daniel space in the Surrey Hotel. The style was French formal, but the reception was warm. The food was both good and generous.

Ellen ordered the pate campagne as an appetizer and I had the calamari. My calamari was very good, but compared to Ellen's pate, it was only okay. It was the best pate compagne I've had - good liver mixed with mushrooms, spices and lots of pistachio nuts.

For entrees, Ellen ordered the Amish chicken and I had the cod with succotash. The cod was good, but the chicken was masterful. It had been poached in a blend of vegetables and spices that infused the chicken with flavor. Although one is never supposed to order chicken in a restaurant, this was the tour de force. The fluid of poaching had an immediate asparagus flavor that blended well with the flavorful chicken. Served with heirloom tomatoes and sliced underdone crisp purple potatoes, the dish came together masterfully.

The portions were generous and the service was considerate - no feeling of condescension. The waiter religiously filled my glass of tap water. The atmosphere was formal, but easy.

The desserts were equally good. Ellen chose the chocolate peach cake and I had the berry cobbler. The chocolate was very light and very rich at the same time, although neither of us detected any hint of peach. It was accompanied with excellent house-made vanilla ice cream.

The berry cobbler was especially good, rich and fulfilling. It was made altogether better with a chamomile ice cream which enhanced the berry concoction.

They also serve a Marc d'Alcace which is particularly good. Note also, that they feature a $20.02 bottle of Corbieres wine as an accompaniment. I intend to try that next this summer since they offer this very good value through September. I had a very good Alsatian pinot blanc and another especially good sauvignon blanc by the glass.

Cafe Boulud was up to Craft and Gramercy Tavern in many ways, but not in every way. Gramercy Tavern's cod is much more flavorful. Craft's food had more intensity of flavor, but is more spotty that Cafe Boulud. The bread was especially good, including a butter roll which had a dollop of butter in the center.

This is a restaurant to watch. They were clearly playing the Restaurant Week game and may win, despite the fact that there is no Lagnaippe.