When Aquavit moved two years ago from its previous location on West 54th Street to its current quarters at 65 East 55th Street, the restaurant lost its stunning atrium Dining Room with its mesmerizing water wall. Profiting from the move, however, was Aquavit's Cafe, which was previously sprawling, low ceilinged and non-descript, but is now a more pleasant, spacious and modern looking venue.

As part of its connection to the cuisine and culinary traditions of Scandinavia, annually in June Aquavit holds a herring festival featuring numerous preparations of herring served buffet style in the Cafe. This year, it cost $27 at lunch and $48 at dinner. At first glance, the spread did not appear that extensive or impressive, but there was more than enough food to keep a large roomful of people happily fed, as the staff conscientiously refilled platters as needed.

For herring aficionados, the choices included herring ceviche, curried herring, herring with cherry and tomato flavor, herring with espresso flavor, herring with herbs, matjes herring, pickled herring, herring with salmon roe and herring with vodka. Some, like the matjes herring, had a strong and distinctive flavor, but the differences among most of the others were fairly subtle, with a common element of vinegar and/or brine.

For those with a limited appetite for herring, the buffet presented several other options. Salmon appeared in two guises: bland, but very smooth, gravlax, and appealing applewood-smoked salmon slices with "tandoori spices." Among the other cold dishes were a livery veal/pork pate that went well with lingonberries, and addictive small slices of spiced beef with a faintly corned beef flavor. Another possibility was a greasy, cheesy flatbread "pizza." Accompaniments for the meat- and fish-based dishes included a beet salad, Gentleman's Delight (an egg salad with anchovies), hot fingerling potatoes and a mixed green salad.

For those with a need for hot food, the buffet offered competently made Swedish meatballs and Janson's Temptation. The latter is a rich preparation of sliced potatoes, onions and cream, strongly flavored by anchovies.

To munch along with this feast, traditional crispy flatbread and good multigrain rolls provided appropriate counterpoints to the mostly savory foods. To drink, we tried a Pinot Bianco ($12 a glass) that held its own against the food.

The staff was pleasant and efficient and extremely patient about identifying dishes and detailing their ingredients.