Remembering the Rutland
Q. #91 (06/17/01) A recently acquired HO scale kit
for the Rutland four window caboose (##11-14) did not include trucks and even failed to
mention which trucks would be a match for the prototypes. I am interested in using Kadee
trucks. Can anyone suggest what set I should buy?
I have the same problem. Can't help with which trucks are right, but I do
have a tip. Precision Scale still makes leaf springs that will fit in Kadee
and other trucks. Look for part #31968, a set of a dozen. The hobby shop owner (now
retired, alas) told me that Walthers doesn't catalog them. He managed to
get them somehow, though.
A. (07/19/01) Eastern Car Works make a set of trucks #9055, Birdsboro Andrews Trucks. These are plastic kits, sideframes, bolsters, springs. The kit includes both leaf springs and coils. The leaf castings fit into Kadee Arch Bar if you cannot get the Precision Scale leafs. The Eastern web site is worth looking at as they have a wide range of unusual freight and passenger car trucks with photos of each style. Kadee wheelsets are a drop fit in any of their trucks.
For more on detailing Rutland vans, refer to questions #4, #9, and #37.
#92 (06/17/01) Was
there ever much interchange between the Rutland and the B&M at Petersburg Jct?
Q. #94 (06/18/01) I am attempting to model plow X104
as this unit would have looked in the 1938-1948 era. So far, I have been unable to find
any pre-1950 photographs of X104, and all photos from the post-1950 era show this plow
with steel wings and the Rutland-style (upside-down "J" shaped), smoke-jack.
Does anyone have any information on when X104 received the steel wings and this type of
smoke-jack? Are there any books with photos of X104 from the pre-1950 era that I may have
Q. #95 (06/25/01) Can some enlighten me on
locomotive movements for the Green Mountain Flyer and the Mount Royal? I
assume when the New York section got to Rutland, that engine carried the train on to
Montreal. Did the locomotive off the Boston section turn around and take the Boston
section from the recently-arrived joint train from Montreal back to Boston or did it
layover? Did the Boston engine from the Flyer ever bring down the Boston section
of the Mount Royal? Hope this was not too confusing.
In my visits to Rutland in the early 1950s it often appeared that a B&M
class P-3 4-6-2 was the regular power on the Troy-to-Rutland and Rutland-to-Troy segments
of the Green Mountain Flyer. On the Bellows Falls-to-Rutland and
Rutland-to-Bellows Falls segments of the Flyer I usually noted a Rutland
70-series 4-6-0. Also, on visits to Bellows Falls during the same period the practice on
the Flyer seemed to be to a B&M P-2 4-6-2 to and from Boston, with the
Rutland 70s on the train in and out of Bellows Falls from and to Rutland, VT. Also, it
seemed that Rutland 4-6-2s were the norm on the Flyer north of Rutland.
Q. #96 (06/25/01) I'm planning to develop plans and build a model of the Stephentown, NY depot. There are several photos in Nimke's Volume IV and I could probably come close on dimensions by scaling the photos, but I thought I'd see if anyone has measured dimensions for this depot. I know it was part of the tour at the 12th Annual RRHS meeting in '98.
I'm also finishing up my Florence depot and a few questions have come up. First, it appears from the published photos in Shaughnessy and Nimke that the sign board on the north (baggage) end of the depot is located on top of the roof, at the edge, whereas the sign on the south end is located under the roof, again at the edge. This location at the north end makes sense because there is a baggage door there that is raised from the ground. Unfortunately, I haven't found any photos that show both the north and south end on the same (or close) date. Can anyone verify that this depot had one sign board above the roof and the other below it? I'm especially interested in the late '40s.
Also, I haven't run across any photos showing the back side (away from the track) of the Florence depot. I'm assuming that it has the same layout as the standard 16' x 40' depot (as shown, for example, in Nimke Vol. III, p. 106), but if it's different I'd like to know so I can produce an accurate plan for the depot.
Along similar lines, I haven't found any photos of the Florence depot that clearly show the window panes so I'm assuming that it had the 6 pane over 9 pane arrangement that was common on the Rutland's 16' x 40' depots. Can anyone verify this?
Finally, what was the lettering height used on these signboards?
I, too, am planning to model the Stephentown station. I have most
measurements, many recent (1990s) photos (including interior) and I've collected
photocopies of old photos of the station that I'd be willing to share. I haven't
actually sat down and made drawing from my data.
Q. #97 (07/06/01) Are there any hobby shops that have a web site that deals in Rutland equipment? I live in Rome, NY [which has] no hobby shops. Syracuse is 45 miles away and they seem interested in either modern or the [New York] Central. I would be dealing by mail or the internet. Like to be able to ask questions about a particular unit before buying and am interested in mainly Rutland except for visiting rolling stock and keeping it in the time frame of 1950 to 1955.
A. (07/16/01) The best shop I have found that stocks Rutland and other Vermont/New Egland equipment is C&J Hobbies, 936 Rte. 7, Waltham, VT 05491-9547. Telephone: 802-877-2997. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Carl, the owner, is friendly, knowledgeable and always seems to be up to date on stocking current releases for Rutland-appropriate models. He deals in Rutland brass, does custom painting and sells some very nice kitbashed three window Rutland cabooses using the MDC wood caboose. This caboose is available in most of the different schemes that appered on these hacks over the years. Unfortunately I do not think he has a web site. It's been over six months since my last contact with him. I lived in northwest New Jersey and now live in Arizona, so I appreciate your dilema. Carl always seemed to be abe to help though.
A. (07/17/01) Don't forget Caboose Corner, on Rt. 5 (Missing Link Rd), Bellows Falls, VT (tel. 802-463-4575), home of Rutland caboose #36. John Cook is a Rutland RR Historical Society member (as is Carl of C & J Hobby), and John has the remaining Nimke books on the Rutland. Caboose Corner is also organizing the Transpo model train show on August 4th (Sat.) in Bellows Falls. E-mail is email@example.com.
Q. #98 (07/06/01) In the Northern New England Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment [published by Morning Sun] is a color picture of the Rutland scale test car. My question is about the two bay hopper in the background. Is it from the same number series as the two bay hopper in Nimke's Volume 1 on equipement? They are definitely different styles.
- Keith Sirman
A. (07/07/01) In response to Keith's question - The hopper is from the same series: 750-764. They were purchased used for use as ballast cars. The car in the photo is likely to be 754. If you look closely you might see a line of rivets running to the top of the end. These rivets mark the added steeper slope sheets installed when these cars were set up as ballast cars. They came with X-numbers. Shortly after they were needed for revenue service and the Xs were painted over.
The Atlas "America's Historic Series" hopper 752 is a close representation. While it is the closest model available it is slightly longer and has 9 "ribs" vs the 7 of the actual car. The 752 is too bold and is too far to the left - no room for the painted out X. The model is lettered correctly in silver and the stencil lines show nicely. With a bit of weathering it makes a nice model. At the Springfield show custom painted Athearn cars have been available. They had white lettering but with weathering they should also be ok.
Q. #99 (07/06/01) I have a nice, new, undecorated Life-Like
Proto 2000 USRA 0-8-0 on my shelf awaiting the arrival of decals. This engine
runs like a dream -- far better than any brass I could afford. And it looks really good --
also better than most older brass. Here is what I am planning to do:
A. (07/19/01) One minor item to note about all of the RUTLAND steam locomotive tenders, at least in the later years, is that they did not have a lip or fluting around the "water deck" of the tender -- there is fluting on the coal boards, but it stops where they meet the tender deck. This is the reason for the handrail around the edge of the tender. What looks like fluting around the edge of the deck is, in fact, the closely spaced rivets that attach the deck to the side sheets.
I'd speculate this was done to allow any overflow to run off the side or back of the tender rather than pool on top and freeze (during the winter) or promote rust (in any season!)
My Life-Like 0-8-0 is product #23307, lettered Missouri Pacific. It appears
there may be some variations in this HO model, depending on the road name. This MP version
has no coal pusher. To my untrained eye, the following are needed to arrive at a
"close enough" model version of the Rutland 0-8-0's.
Q. #100 (07/15/01) What are the correct numbers to use on the Railworks Rutland fishbelly milk cars (340 series with the belt rail and lower body vents) that were released last year? I've seen pictures of these cars with and without the [side] vents. The image of #347 in the RtR Photo Gallery has no vents. Were the cars built with roof vents and were they then removed later or were some built with them and some without? I have a Railworks unpainted car with the vents and want to paint it in the olive steam era color. Has anyone found a match for the Railworks olive green using commercially available paint?
The Railworks model comes with a lever style brake. I numbered mine 340
because it appears from photos that the rest of the series had a brake wheel. As for the
vents and belt rail it seems that over the years of repairs that some were covered over
when the sheathing was replaced. I have a photo of a car with vents on one end of the side
and none on the other. There are also later photos where there are no vents or belt rail -
this would make for an easy scratch building project. I had not noticed that the roof
vents were removed - I'll have to look again. I also believe that the [style of] vents on
the model are not correct - just "close enough".
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